capping

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netmouse
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 12:33 pm

capping

#1 Post by netmouse »

I've heard installers say aluminum capping, vinyl coated capping, and vinyl capping. Is there really a difference?

Guy
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#2 Post by Guy »

In general there are only two kinds of capping, a "Smooth" and "PVC Coated". The difference is in its appearance. The Smooth coil is just what it says. It is an aluminum sheet with the color of choice on one side. You can get some of them which have two colors, one on each side. The PVC coated coil has a thin vinyl coating applied which gives it a wood grain appearance. It's just a bit more attractive than the plain old flat stock. Some contractors prefer the smooth and some prefer the coated. We base everything off what will look best for each application. If your matching some existing capping on the house you try and stay the same. Hope this clarifies things for you!

netmouse
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 12:33 pm

#3 Post by netmouse »

the reason i asked about capping is that one installer bidding on my window job pointed out the current old capping is alumimum and it looks dirty. he said it is not dirt but because the capping is aluminum and that is why you do not want aluminum capping on the new windows. this is also the installer (Gorell) who says their windows on the outside slope towards the wall, instead of being square/flat - this is preferable so the installer can caulk so it is not visible (after capping I guess). He is the one saying they use "architectural caulk" and on the outside the caulking will not be visible.

The other installer says no matter the window you will have a caulk on the outside that is visible, and other guy is wrong. They say they use 100% silicon caulk and I never need to re-caulk.

Other installers only guarantee caulking one year at most and say you do need to re-caulkperiodically

Who is right? Architectural caulk, silicon caulk or ??? Should I expect to never re-caulk or is that something that is always needed periodically and the first to installers may be over-selling me on no need to re-caulk ever.

FenEx
Posts: 353
Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2005 3:43 pm
Location: Illinois

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#4 Post by FenEx »

Your Gorell guy is attempting to be creative in his presentation... to differentiate. The ONLY purpose of ANY capping, siding or even masonry (face brick/stone/stucco) for that matter is to shed bulk water and look pretty. The only purpose of capping is to give an attractive, maintenance free cover to the existing trim around the window and keep it from getting hit with bulk moisture from the outside. It should be caulked at horizontal and verticle seams but left breathable at properly installed overlapping miters to allow for vapor.

researcher
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Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2005 9:11 am

#5 Post by researcher »

FenEx,

How long will top shelf non paintable exterior caulking last? And how long will top shelf paintable caulking last? Lets say vinyl to brick.

Thanks

FenEx
Posts: 353
Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2005 3:43 pm
Location: Illinois

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#6 Post by FenEx »

A good quality caulk can last 10,15, 20 years or more. The biggest problem for a good caulk is not the caulk failing or cracking but it separating from a surface it's attached to as the house moves and breathes. In any case, caulking should be inspected yearly. A good example of adhesion failure vs product failure is paint. You can put two coats of a 30 year exterior paint on cedar siding and wind up repainting in 5-10 years as the paint is peeling or lifting off the surface. The warranty will not cover this in most cases. Why? Because the paint isn't necessarily failing. Exfiltrating moisture from the inside of the home is passing through the untreated, porous backside of the cedar and lifting the paint off the surface. As for your question about vinyl and brick, the same thing can happen with the brick as it's very porous, especially the mortar joints. We offer a 10 year warranty on our installs which includes a yearly inspection (upon request) of caulking. It teaches homeowners to take an hour every year to do an inspection, much like a tune-up on a car or a clean and tune on a furnace before Winter.

Door&WindowPlus
Posts: 205
Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2006 6:41 pm
Location: South El Monte, CA

#7 Post by Door&WindowPlus »

netmouse wrote:the reason i asked about capping is that one installer bidding on my window job pointed out the current old capping is alumimum and it looks dirty. he said it is not dirt but because the capping is aluminum and that is why you do not want aluminum capping on the new windows. this is also the installer (Gorell) who says their windows on the outside slope towards the wall, instead of being square/flat - this is preferable so the installer can caulk so it is not visible (after capping I guess). He is the one saying they use "architectural caulk" and on the outside the caulking will not be visible.

The other installer says no matter the window you will have a caulk on the outside that is visible, and other guy is wrong. They say they use 100% silicon caulk and I never need to re-caulk.

Other installers only guarantee caulking one year at most and say you do need to re-caulkperiodically

Who is right? Architectural caulk, silicon caulk or ??? Should I expect to never re-caulk or is that something that is always needed periodically and the first to installers may be over-selling me on no need to re-caulk ever.
Capping is not the way to go. Fix the problem with the wood. Capping just puts it off to another day and will cost more money. Nothing ever is maintaince free like you think.

windowrep
Posts: 135
Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 12:57 am
Location: ne ohio

#8 Post by windowrep »

fix it with wood? you have to be kidding me? capping with a pvc coated aluminum correctly and you are maintence free forever. besides taking a glance at it each spring to make sure it is not seperated{as fenex stated}. and you are worry free. you have obviously seen very poor cap jobs or first time installers.

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Window4U (IL)
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Location: Sales and Installation in Chicagoland and Central Illinois

#9 Post by Window4U (IL) »

Capping is not the way to go. Fix the problem with the wood. Capping just puts it off to another day and will cost more money. Nothing ever is maintaince free like you think.


LOL, I can tell you are in sunny California with advice like that.
If you were in the window business in the midwest or east coast you wouldn't be giving the same advice I guarantee you.

Door&WindowPlus
Posts: 205
Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2006 6:41 pm
Location: South El Monte, CA

#10 Post by Door&WindowPlus »

In California most of the companies doing the capping dont know what their doing. They dont install the capping right so there are leaking problems and they cap wood that is already decaying with termites and dry rot. All I am saying is that in sunny California companies shouldnt be doing this unless they warranty the install of the capping for life.

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Window4U (IL)
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Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2005 3:58 pm
Location: Sales and Installation in Chicagoland and Central Illinois

#11 Post by Window4U (IL) »

I can appreciate your point of view. I see poor capping jobs everyday that can't help leak water. Like most issues when installing windows, if it is done wrong there are definite problems down the road.

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