Entry door tolerances.
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Paul Tillson
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2007 9:12 pm
Entry door tolerances.
Is there a standard for how tight an entry door should fit? If there is a standard what is it? I have an entry door that needs to be replaced and it is leaking water at the bottom big time.
What do you mean by Tolerance? If your asking about the gaps between the door and the frame, it's 1/8". At least it's an 1/8" around the sides and top. The bottom of the door should seal up with the sweep riding across the threshold not allowing water or air to enter the house.
If the water is entering under the sill it's because the person who installed it never put down any sealant before setting the door or it's failed in some way. It's very common for us to pull old door frames and find they were never sealed properly when they were first installed. When you replace the door it will be very important to set the new door on a sealant to prevent water and air leakage. When the old door is pulled out throw a level on the floor to see if it's level or not. Setting a door on a level surface to start with is 50% of the install. If it's not level you have to get it level. For an opening like yours which has leaking issues we build it up with 4 1/2" x 12" layers of 30# felt paper. It's time consuming and a pain in the rear but it always works. Just start layering it across the floor and checking the level in between pieces until it comes level. Ounce you get it level set your sealant down. We lay down three 1/2" lines of silicone about 1 1/2" apart from each other across the bottom. It's also very important to look at the bottom of your sill to see where the flush surfaces are. Some of the sills today have pockets which won't lie flat to the surface and seal unless sealant is set in the proper place. If this is the case just measure in from the back of the brickmould to the best spot for sealant. Transfer that dimension from the outside edge of the wall where the brickmould mounts to the inside and lay your seal. This way you'll know where the best place is to get the best seal. Ounce the door is set and fastened in place we use a low expansion canned foam to seal around the frame. Make sure the sealant gets all the way down to the finished floor. ounce this sets and drys you have a seal that will stop the air and water from penetrating your home. It's also a good idea to caulk around the bottom of the sill plate along the outside surface where it sets to the floor. We have some cities here who won't sign off on our permits unless this is done.
If your opening wasn't level when the existing door was set they probably just shimmed the frame up from underneath. When this is done the sill is lifted off the floor surface offering a nice big gap for water, air and insects to enter the home. So you can see why it has to be leveled with something that offers a firm surface.
If your existing door is still in good shape and worth saving you may want to caulk around the bottom sill along the outside and see if you can't shut off the leak. This may save the hassle of setting a new one. Hope this answers any questions you may have. Good Luck!!!
If the water is entering under the sill it's because the person who installed it never put down any sealant before setting the door or it's failed in some way. It's very common for us to pull old door frames and find they were never sealed properly when they were first installed. When you replace the door it will be very important to set the new door on a sealant to prevent water and air leakage. When the old door is pulled out throw a level on the floor to see if it's level or not. Setting a door on a level surface to start with is 50% of the install. If it's not level you have to get it level. For an opening like yours which has leaking issues we build it up with 4 1/2" x 12" layers of 30# felt paper. It's time consuming and a pain in the rear but it always works. Just start layering it across the floor and checking the level in between pieces until it comes level. Ounce you get it level set your sealant down. We lay down three 1/2" lines of silicone about 1 1/2" apart from each other across the bottom. It's also very important to look at the bottom of your sill to see where the flush surfaces are. Some of the sills today have pockets which won't lie flat to the surface and seal unless sealant is set in the proper place. If this is the case just measure in from the back of the brickmould to the best spot for sealant. Transfer that dimension from the outside edge of the wall where the brickmould mounts to the inside and lay your seal. This way you'll know where the best place is to get the best seal. Ounce the door is set and fastened in place we use a low expansion canned foam to seal around the frame. Make sure the sealant gets all the way down to the finished floor. ounce this sets and drys you have a seal that will stop the air and water from penetrating your home. It's also a good idea to caulk around the bottom of the sill plate along the outside surface where it sets to the floor. We have some cities here who won't sign off on our permits unless this is done.
If your opening wasn't level when the existing door was set they probably just shimmed the frame up from underneath. When this is done the sill is lifted off the floor surface offering a nice big gap for water, air and insects to enter the home. So you can see why it has to be leveled with something that offers a firm surface.
If your existing door is still in good shape and worth saving you may want to caulk around the bottom sill along the outside and see if you can't shut off the leak. This may save the hassle of setting a new one. Hope this answers any questions you may have. Good Luck!!!
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