Gorell, Viwinco or Vista DH Vinyl Rep. Windows

ok, i def. need to find some local installation(s) and have a look.

Thanks for the photo Home Sealed...that does look pretty good actually.
And i do understand the sill bend...i think?... if it is cut long and bent down to
match the side of the nose, then how is that front edge seam sealed...
between the face and side of the nose?

Please see my stupid sketch?...

Caulk is your friend right...or is there something i'm missing?

PC

Some guys only bend the face around the side and caulk the seams (I've never seen anyone bend the top surface down like that unless the face was wrapped under it). Preferrably, the top and face are both cut long and overlap. Either way is really okay, one just looks neater and uses less caulk. Theoretically, the goal when flashing or wrapping a window should be to make it water tight with as little caulk as possible.

Capping/wrapping/cladding exterior sill and windows casings is more of an art when done with pride and professional craftsmanship. I personally utilized several different techniques on my returns (end) of the sill depending on primarily 2 different factors, angle of the sill and weather or not a sill angle is to be utilized. If the sill has a low pitch as with running the capping under the bottom of the replacement window and then foaming and installing the sill angle we will cut a relieve bend in the top and bottom and then just fold the ear/return inwards. If I don't love the last 1% of the cut of the snipes as they finished the cut into the nose sometimes I'll just shoot a tiny bit of sealant into the corner of the joint to make sure nothing could ever possibly get into the capping in the form of water penetration.

If we are foaming first and then tucking the capping into the sill accessory grove and the slope or pitch is greater than that of the first method, I will cut the bottom of the return even with the edge of the wood sill and then bend around the nose and fold down the top part of the return after it has been carefully scored with a razor knife and hand bent to separate. This method allows for no visible seems from a top view, however if the top fold down doesn't have a groove to tuck into it may require a stainless trim nail to lie completely flush with the wood sill return/end. Hope this makes sense.

Similar to DM we cut and fold the bottom and face as one piece at a 90, then tab the top down over that and trim back to 3/8" waterlap.
What you can tell from this is that as DM and others have stated it is very pride and skill oreinted.

Thanks Guys,

Just to be clear, i know very little about doing any kind of wrap
and would never try to act like i know more than you folks.
I was just trying to better understand the method of doing a
sill wrap and how the seam would look. So please excuse my ignorance.

I can certainly appreciate the skill and workmanship that goes into
doing this. As with most things, there is more to it than initially
meets the eye.

Would anybody have a close-up photo of a good sill wrap?
and/or how the wrap goes around the brickmould and into/behind the siding?
I have masonite siding and one guy that came out said he would use
a circular saw and cut a shallow relief slot between the siding and brickmould
and bend the wrap such that it tucks into the slot.

Another guy says this method causes chip-out of the siding and is difficult
to really seal well?

Best,
PC

Good Day Folks,

Ok, hopefully my last question.
I had another guy out and he had the Gorell 'Timeless Plus' window.

How do they compare with the 5100 or 5300 series?
I'm not finding much information about the 'Timeless' on the Gorell site.
I do have the number of the local Gorell rep which i will call, but
thought i'd ask you guys if you knew any details.

Looked like a pretty good window, similar to the 5300 series i've seen...
the salesman didn't know anything about the 5100/5300 series.
He said his company had an exclusive on the 'Timeless Plus' and that
is the Gorell product they sell?

Thanks again for all the help.
Best,
PC

The Timeless is actually the 5200. Essentially it is a beefed up 5100 with more options. It has significantly slimmer lines than the 5300 (=more glass), but comparable performance with the fiberglass reinforcement and foam filled frame. It has a separate website at timelesswindow.com .

Plygem does Not use a stainless spacer. They use standard intercept which is a tin plated alloy. Block and tackle is an expensive balance system and beats out all others in " durability testing" . However, a constant force is fine as well..no one is going to open and close their windows a thousand times a day for 50 years..LOL.. That's basically the simulated durability testing.
Personally I think the soft lite is a better designed window. Gotta be real careful with plygem and make sure it's their top series..still, I think the soft lite LS is more solid.

Thanks HomeSealed...i'll check the site out.
The window did look pretty good, never heard of the 5200 series...
awesome!...more research for me...haha.

Ranger....um...posted in wrong topic??

Lol, it is the wrong topic.... but just to clarify, PlyGem does offer the stainless spacer. Not sure if they have it in their pricebooks etc, but you can get it. Otherwise, I agree.