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 Post subject: Window thickness
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:57 pm 

Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:39 pm
Posts: 2
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I have ordered 12 windows to start with which should arrive in a week or two and will be installing them myself. I am using Soft Lite brand. My problem is the gap between the insise and outside stop is only 3 inches. I thought the standard is 3 1/4 for replacement windows. How is the best way to go about replacing these? Inside or outside? I will be needing to have the outside wrapped anyway but not to sure new stops would be as good or efficiant as the original. I want the job to be done right and air tight as possible.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 9:17 pm 

Joined: Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:57 pm
Posts: 80
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If you're going to have it wrapped anyway, cut of the exterior stops and install them from the outside. Just make sure that when the new stop is installed, it gets caulked on 2 sides- to the jamb and to the window.


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 Post subject: 3" depth
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 12:40 am 

Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2006 3:21 pm
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XSleeper is right. Inside vs. outside stop modification may be an issue if you're not wrapping the outside, but since you ARE wrapping the outside, removing the outside stops is by far the better choice.


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 Post subject: Soft Lite Window
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 6:15 am 

Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2006 9:50 am
Posts: 50
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Who did you buy your soft-Lite windows from? contractor or Supply house? :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 9:40 am 

Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:39 pm
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Well sounds like removing the outside stop is the way to go then. I was just concerned about getting a good seal against the stop and insulating around the side jamb all being done from the outside. I got these windows from a local contractor. I tried to research about windows and feel these are the best I can get for the money. Not intersted in just finding the cheapest window.

How does the outside stop get removed? It seems it is kind of formed into the jamb. I would need a smooth edge to attach the new stop to and a sawsall will be hard to use with the window sashes still attached. I have not actually tore into it yet.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 11:14 am 

Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2006 3:28 pm
Posts: 243
Location: WISCONSIN
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If your a novice with the power saw use a utility knife and score both sides six or seven times until it easily pry's off in one piece.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 12:40 pm 

Joined: Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:57 pm
Posts: 80
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You'll use the reciprocating saw. Lock the windows (so the top one doesn't fall down, and so that all the sawdust stays outside) and use a short blade for wood+nails. If you have an adjustable foot on your reciprocating saw, set it so that the blade doesn't hit the parting stop- if you don't have an adjustable foot, you'll just have to get the hang of how to hold the saw at the best angle as you cut. You don't need to remove the sashes before cutting off the exterior stop. Just plunge the reciprocating saw blade into the wood and go to town. After you've done it a few times, you'll see that its very easy to make a perfectly smooth cut (start at the top, go toward the bottom and don't start and stop the saw, don't move the saw around like its a chainsaw, just make a nice smooth cut, no problem).


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