Window thickness

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Trust3752
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:39 pm

Window thickness

#1 Post by Trust3752 » Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:57 pm

I have ordered 12 windows to start with which should arrive in a week or two and will be installing them myself. I am using Soft Lite brand. My problem is the gap between the insise and outside stop is only 3 inches. I thought the standard is 3 1/4 for replacement windows. How is the best way to go about replacing these? Inside or outside? I will be needing to have the outside wrapped anyway but not to sure new stops would be as good or efficiant as the original. I want the job to be done right and air tight as possible.

XSleeper
Posts: 80
Joined: Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:57 pm

#2 Post by XSleeper » Mon Mar 06, 2006 9:17 pm

If you're going to have it wrapped anyway, cut of the exterior stops and install them from the outside. Just make sure that when the new stop is installed, it gets caulked on 2 sides- to the jamb and to the window.

Tru_blue
Posts: 72
Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2006 3:21 pm

3" depth

#3 Post by Tru_blue » Tue Mar 07, 2006 12:40 am

XSleeper is right. Inside vs. outside stop modification may be an issue if you're not wrapping the outside, but since you ARE wrapping the outside, removing the outside stops is by far the better choice.

windowman pa
Posts: 50
Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2006 9:50 am

Soft Lite Window

#4 Post by windowman pa » Tue Mar 07, 2006 6:15 am

Who did you buy your soft-Lite windows from? contractor or Supply house? :D

Trust3752
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:39 pm

#5 Post by Trust3752 » Tue Mar 07, 2006 9:40 am

Well sounds like removing the outside stop is the way to go then. I was just concerned about getting a good seal against the stop and insulating around the side jamb all being done from the outside. I got these windows from a local contractor. I tried to research about windows and feel these are the best I can get for the money. Not intersted in just finding the cheapest window.

How does the outside stop get removed? It seems it is kind of formed into the jamb. I would need a smooth edge to attach the new stop to and a sawsall will be hard to use with the window sashes still attached. I have not actually tore into it yet.

ANOTHER WINDOW GUY
Posts: 243
Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2006 3:28 pm
Location: WISCONSIN

#6 Post by ANOTHER WINDOW GUY » Tue Mar 07, 2006 11:14 am

If your a novice with the power saw use a utility knife and score both sides six or seven times until it easily pry's off in one piece.

XSleeper
Posts: 80
Joined: Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:57 pm

#7 Post by XSleeper » Tue Mar 07, 2006 12:40 pm

You'll use the reciprocating saw. Lock the windows (so the top one doesn't fall down, and so that all the sawdust stays outside) and use a short blade for wood+nails. If you have an adjustable foot on your reciprocating saw, set it so that the blade doesn't hit the parting stop- if you don't have an adjustable foot, you'll just have to get the hang of how to hold the saw at the best angle as you cut. You don't need to remove the sashes before cutting off the exterior stop. Just plunge the reciprocating saw blade into the wood and go to town. After you've done it a few times, you'll see that its very easy to make a perfectly smooth cut (start at the top, go toward the bottom and don't start and stop the saw, don't move the saw around like its a chainsaw, just make a nice smooth cut, no problem).

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