Install Question
Install Question
Hello,
I have 2 questions about installing replacement windows.
1. Can the entire job be done from the outside?
2. Should my window pockets be insulated? My current windows use weights and pulleys.
Thanks.
I have 2 questions about installing replacement windows.
1. Can the entire job be done from the outside?
2. Should my window pockets be insulated? My current windows use weights and pulleys.
Thanks.
- Windows on Washington
- Posts: 4850
- Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 11:21 pm
- Location: DC Metropolitan Area-Maryland/Virginia/DC
- Contact:
Re: Install Question
1. Technically..Yes but they are going to need to caulk the interior at a minimum. In best practice...No. They need to set the unit, adjust it, and set the reveals prior to screwing in place.
2. Yes. 100%.
2. Yes. 100%.
Re: Install Question
Thank you for the reply.
-
- Posts: 826
- Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:14 pm
- Location: Window Pro-Serves All of Northern New Jersey. Bergen, Morris, Union, Essex, Passaic, Sussex Counties
Re: Install Question
If you are worried abut interior moulding being compromised, i wouldnt worry. A good installer is used to interior installs so damaging any moulding is usually remote. The moulding does not get removed, only the stops.
Yes, we insulate the weight pockets as well. Fiberglass is fine in a weight pocket because its a relatively wide area. When then use foam around the perimeter. Works very well.
Yes, we insulate the weight pockets as well. Fiberglass is fine in a weight pocket because its a relatively wide area. When then use foam around the perimeter. Works very well.
Last edited by masterext on Tue Jan 28, 2014 9:29 am, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Install Question
Thanks for the reply.
-
- Posts: 1893
- Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 5:52 pm
- Location: SE PA & NJ; CT
- Contact:
Re: Install Question
I have never insulated the weight pockets. Maybe time for this old dog to learn a new trick.
You can do an out to in install: the sash are extracted towards the exterior by removing the exterior storm window stop, then back caulk and pull the window in from the outside to the inside, fasten, caulk interior, finish the exterior. This method also works well for a simple RRP protocol. About 50% of the work is done from the inside of the house.
theWindowNerd...
You can do an out to in install: the sash are extracted towards the exterior by removing the exterior storm window stop, then back caulk and pull the window in from the outside to the inside, fasten, caulk interior, finish the exterior. This method also works well for a simple RRP protocol. About 50% of the work is done from the inside of the house.
theWindowNerd...
Re: Install Question
How do you guys insulate the weight pockets? This can be tricky and difficult. Shoving fiberglass into the pockets or injecting with low expansion foam...both seem like they could have their limits and issues and how much does it really help. I have done both but I sometimes wonder if you inject the perimeter with low expansion foam, do a good flash/cap job, excellent caulking inside and out with top grade sealants you might be sealing the opening well enough. I would love to here how some of the experts here address the weight pockets. Thanks in advance.
- Windows on Washington
- Posts: 4850
- Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 11:21 pm
- Location: DC Metropolitan Area-Maryland/Virginia/DC
- Contact:
Re: Install Question
If you are doing and detailed insert and pulling it from outside, you can cut a large enough hole that will allow the installation of a fibrous insulation.
In this application, Roxul (mineral wool) is preferred as it is much less subject to convection than fiberglass.
If you are going with foam, the key is multiple locations to inject and not to get greedy. I also prefer to mist or otherwise wet the area slightly so as to help the foam cure more quickly.
In this application, Roxul (mineral wool) is preferred as it is much less subject to convection than fiberglass.
If you are going with foam, the key is multiple locations to inject and not to get greedy. I also prefer to mist or otherwise wet the area slightly so as to help the foam cure more quickly.
Re: Install Question
My primary reason for this question is that, since my house was built in the 1920’s and none of my walls are insulated, does it matter if the weight pockets… which I’m guessing are approx.. 6” deep get insulated?
Overall I want to do what is most efficient and effective given the construction of my house.
The outside of my house is constructed with a field stone veneer and stucco and most likely framed using balloon construction. The inside is all plaster.
Overall I want to do what is most efficient and effective given the construction of my house.
The outside of my house is constructed with a field stone veneer and stucco and most likely framed using balloon construction. The inside is all plaster.
- Windows on Washington
- Posts: 4850
- Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 11:21 pm
- Location: DC Metropolitan Area-Maryland/Virginia/DC
- Contact:
Re: Install Question
Weight pockets do help but you have a bunch of stuff going on there so it might be like putting your finger in a dam leak.
- Delaware Mike
- Posts: 947
- Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:32 pm
- Location: Delaware, New Jersey, Philadephia Area
Re: Install Question
I hate to have air leakage in a wall or pocket cavity that is only stopped by a bead of sealant. I ran into a situation in which the homeowner was complaining about the horrible performance of beat up 75-year old wood windows and excessive noise intrusion due to a bunch of rednecks that used her road to show off their header exhaust systems on their 4 x 4's. She was 8-months pregnant and couldn't sleep due to the noise.
I went with a well regarded product with tight tolerances, insulated frames and sashes (Soft-Lite Imperial LS) with laminated glass. What took the most time other than the lead safe RRP precautions, was the foam insulation. I drilled off-set holes all up and down the jambs and in the head of the frame work. I went through quite a few cans of the regular great stuff to ensure that there were no gaps. At some point there is going to be some guessing if casings aren't pulled. In the end, it was a very tight install and they were very pleased with the results. If I did more of these I would pursue a more commercial type of machine.
I went with a well regarded product with tight tolerances, insulated frames and sashes (Soft-Lite Imperial LS) with laminated glass. What took the most time other than the lead safe RRP precautions, was the foam insulation. I drilled off-set holes all up and down the jambs and in the head of the frame work. I went through quite a few cans of the regular great stuff to ensure that there were no gaps. At some point there is going to be some guessing if casings aren't pulled. In the end, it was a very tight install and they were very pleased with the results. If I did more of these I would pursue a more commercial type of machine.
Re: Install Question
Coincidence.....
I just ran across this on youtube the other day....
How to insulate a weight pocket
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0 ... 96,00.html
I just ran across this on youtube the other day....
How to insulate a weight pocket
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0 ... 96,00.html
- Delaware Mike
- Posts: 947
- Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:32 pm
- Location: Delaware, New Jersey, Philadephia Area
Re: Install Question
I like this very much for a do-it-yourself homeowner. Homeowners aren't liable for following the RRP rules like the professionals are. Any home old enough to have weight pockets will pretty much have lead based paint. I don't know what the ratio of lead based paint verses older varnishes on stained trim is, but they can have lead in them too. There is huge difference in an exterior stop pull type of removal with lead safe RRP, and starting to pull casings. You might find it very hard to find someone other than a rouge GC or historic renovator to do this.
They also forgot to mention that once those casings are removed, either new ones are gong to need to be furnished and installed, or the old ones after reinstallation are going to need to be repainted. In the process of removal, historic casings can or are likely to be damaged. We don't like to damage the walls surrounding the casings either. Once must take their time and be very careful.
An ideal situation would be on a total rehab type of renovation in which the homeowner has already pulled the casings for us and just wanted the windows installed and possibly capped.
Nice job of posting that up. I like the show very much.
They also forgot to mention that once those casings are removed, either new ones are gong to need to be furnished and installed, or the old ones after reinstallation are going to need to be repainted. In the process of removal, historic casings can or are likely to be damaged. We don't like to damage the walls surrounding the casings either. Once must take their time and be very careful.
An ideal situation would be on a total rehab type of renovation in which the homeowner has already pulled the casings for us and just wanted the windows installed and possibly capped.
Nice job of posting that up. I like the show very much.
- Windows on Washington
- Posts: 4850
- Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 11:21 pm
- Location: DC Metropolitan Area-Maryland/Virginia/DC
- Contact:
Re: Install Question
I don't want to pick apart Tim Silva because I think he is a fantastic carpenter but this is not the best way to insulate a weight pocket and several of the ideas put forth in that video (vapor barriers, etc.) are flawed.
1. Pulling old trim on a plaster and lathe home (even drywall for that matter) is a recipe for disaster as well as additional expense.
2. Putting in rigid foam sounds like a great idea but the holes are very inconsistent in some cases and getting any sort of air seal via that method is near impossible.
3. Using a double foil faced foam creates a double vapor barrier and is incorrect from the outset.
4. Using foil tape with the moisture content and movement of wood is also incorrect.
If you are pulling the old windows, a circular saw and cutting back the jamb side covers on them will expose them all that you need.
You can effective insulate and air seal by removing material from the exterior jamb side.
1. Pulling old trim on a plaster and lathe home (even drywall for that matter) is a recipe for disaster as well as additional expense.
2. Putting in rigid foam sounds like a great idea but the holes are very inconsistent in some cases and getting any sort of air seal via that method is near impossible.
3. Using a double foil faced foam creates a double vapor barrier and is incorrect from the outset.
4. Using foil tape with the moisture content and movement of wood is also incorrect.
If you are pulling the old windows, a circular saw and cutting back the jamb side covers on them will expose them all that you need.
You can effective insulate and air seal by removing material from the exterior jamb side.
- HomeSealed
- Posts: 2749
- Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2010 6:14 pm
- Location: Milwaukee, Madison, Northern IL
- Contact:
Re: Install Question
Couldn't agree more with the other pros. That video makes it seem so simple and easy, but let me tell you that pulling some 80-100 yr old casing under a dozen+ coats of paint is anything but. That is some seriously tedious and time consuming work, particularly with the lead safe renovation regulations. I realize that TOH is aimed more at DIY'ers, and its a good thing, because that whole process could possibly double the price of the project when all is said and done. Carefully removing the existing casing and stools, replacing some damaged pieces (it will happen), patching damaged plaster, filling nail holes and painting, all while using lead safe containment. Fiberglass and/or foam through the jamb is difficult to get 100%, but it still provides a marked improvement without the extraordinary hassle and expense of removing the old casing and everything that could potentially come with that. Like the other guys, I'm a fan of Silva and TOH, but that video does a disservice to everything that is involved in the process, not to mention the technical inaccuracies that WoW mentioned.
800-399-4623