How Should Window Capping Be Installed

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grace2016
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How Should Window Capping Be Installed

#1 Post by grace2016 » Tue Jul 12, 2016 9:32 pm

For our vinyl replacement project, all of the existing exterior wood trim around the windows will be wrapped with aluminum coil. A big concern I have is water getting behind the aluminum coil (cap/wrap) and rotting the wood. How should this be installed so that water doesn't get into it. It's my understanding that they will use caulking to keep water out. To me it seems that you're at the mercy of the caulking. Please let me know what are best practices for installing this. We have hard coat stucco for the siding.

TheWindowNerd
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Re: How Should Window Capping Be Installed

#2 Post by TheWindowNerd » Wed Jul 13, 2016 5:03 am

It really is the skill and care of the installer that makes a good and water tight cap.
First all pieces must be sloped and lapped properly for drainage. second the sealant should be a high grade compatible to the clean surfaces it is being applied to. caulk joints must be large enough to allow for proper stretch of the sealant.
You would be wise to inspect the caulk joints on an annual bases to make sure none have opened up.

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HomeSealed
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Re: How Should Window Capping Be Installed

#3 Post by HomeSealed » Wed Jul 13, 2016 12:34 pm

+1. The trim installation should be lapped in such a way where the caulk is of minimal importance to keep out meaningful water intrusion, however it will still perform some function to that end. There is really no way around that. Doesn't matter if it is a roof, siding, windows, etc, sealants are needed to complete a water tight "shield".

Ricknez
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Re: How Should Window Capping Be Installed

#4 Post by Ricknez » Wed Jul 13, 2016 1:41 pm

most capping jobs are simple. once the trim is covered and caulked, i wouldnt worry about water.

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HomeSealed
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Re: How Should Window Capping Be Installed

#5 Post by HomeSealed » Tue Jul 19, 2016 11:40 am

Ricknez wrote:most capping jobs are simple. once the trim is covered and caulked, i wouldnt worry about water.
I would be careful about that. While yes, capping is not rocket science and it is essentially just a cladding of the existing trim (serving a similar purpose to paint in most cases), it can cause some pretty dire problems when done improperly which happens far too often. It is not uncommon for it to be improperly integrated into the existing flashing system where it can then actually direct water INTO the opening, and into the wall of the home. The most common situation I see is when guys put their top piece of trim right over the existing drip cap on a vinyl sided home, and then caulk it to the j channel.

toddinmn
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Re: How Should Window Capping Be Installed

#6 Post by toddinmn » Tue Jul 19, 2016 11:44 pm

I'm with Homesealed, capping is often where the hacks and pro's are separated.

Guy
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Re: How Should Window Capping Be Installed

#7 Post by Guy » Sat Aug 06, 2016 2:36 pm

Homesealed explained it perfectly. Our exterior capping application has seperated us from all the others! We bend our capping with brickmould bends to match existing wood brickmould. 90% of the installers here just box bend to save time and money. This way just doesn't work for me.
We go that extra mile and back cut any tight spots where the existing wood meets another surface. We make sure the capping has legs that slide between any J-Bead and existing wood. We take our time installing the capping so it's not bent up and damaged. Some installers just beat it on with a hammer or their fist. We bend it to slip over the existing wood easily. Our capping goes together like a puzzle and there are no holes or ugly corners. We miter all our corners and always use a matching caulk by OSI. Our caulk lines are small and narrow. The caulking is used to seal seams and connections. Good capping just enhances the final product. If applied properly and caulked right, there will be no air or water infiltration. Good Luck!!!

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Delaware Mike
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Re: How Should Window Capping Be Installed

#8 Post by Delaware Mike » Sat Aug 06, 2016 9:36 pm

Like what Guy is preaching for sure. Homeowners love the brickmold profile bends regardless if it's free hand old school, Van Mark Trim Former, or Tapco's Brake Buddy. It separates the ham and eggers from the elite mechanics.

An outside sales rep recommended a sub to me once that was still face nailing all of his box bends. He told me he does that because he has never had any capping blow off from the wind. I'm assuming any random photo gallery of his projects could make the cover of Fangoria magazine.

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