Ridge vent, gable vent

Thanks Homesealed.

Bad cell phone photos.

This is across the top. You can see that they started at the bottom of the left side of the radius and then continued across to the bottom of the right of the arch. Top of arch just about touches the soffit, and the soffit with the oversized gutter extends about 22 inches. Radius of arc is just about 22 inches. So only a wind driven rain will have a chance to touch these caps.




Here is a photo looking down on the right side. As you can see the seems are up, and there is no sealant.


Water tight as the owner stated?

This window is not his best work! Sloppy cuts, etc.


As far as the gutters... I put a 6 foot level on the gutter and it drops about a 1/4 inch per 6 foot. Seems the beam saged a bit in the middle asthe beam definately goes up a bit at the end. I gather considring the above that this is the way it is going to be.

Well, here is one of ours to compare:
Notice 1 seam, going the proper direction... There are many ways to skin a cat as they say, but that does not look good, and those upside down seams are a potential problem. I'm sure that some of the other pros will weigh in as well, but personally I would not accept that.

The wrap job needs to redone, the only way to find out if it doesn't is the hard way.I would also be a litttle leary of the j-channel being all cut up ,I hope the flashed it with wome flex wrap or something. They should have used a flexible J or just cut the back side of it to bend it around. I would get someone else to fix it and take it off the bill.

Ken, you need to have a long chat with your installer. Just because they seem nice and you feel they did ok, that's not what you paid for. You need to stand your ground and make sure the issues you have with your contractor are cleared up. If you let them skate on it they'll just keep on doing it wrong. We've all done a job in our past that was miles away from being stellar. We've all had to tear it off and do it again. That capping around the arched window is horrible! Tell them to use a caulk gun to caulk, not a pastry bag. I agree with Todd about the J-Channel. Snip the back side and not the front. Flexible J-Channel is everywhere today just for these types of applications. The multiple layered pieces of capping stacked on top each other is a common method. I do it in one piece with a special jig I made for rolling out curved metal. Takes awhile but looks awesome. They are suppose to use the Shingle Technique when installing them. You need to start up from each side and meet in the middle. When I used this method I use to put a hem on the ends so I could interlock the pieces. It also gave me a cleaner look and caulking was minimal. As for the gable vent, here's what I pulled off one time. I used our low expansion foam with an extended tube. I back filled the vent with foam. I had to take my time but it really stuck to the screen material behind the vent. Dont over do it or clean up will be ugly. Just a better thought than chopping a hole. Good Luck!!!

Yes... I am definately going to have a talk with him.

Last night I went to reinstall my flood light on the base that he installed before siding. In the center there is a hole for the wires and for what I thought were for attaching the fixture to the bar that is attached to the metal electric box. Well, the hole does not line up with the threaded hole. I then looked at the other two light boxes and one is over the sheathing with the box to the side. The last one is centered properly, but they took off the mounting bar when they took the light off. Is there something I am missing here?

Do the light fixtures get attached to a mount that gets screwed on the plastic face? Or should everything line up?

Ken

Most companies attach the mounting plate to the light block.

Thanks WOW.

I googled light box and saw some that go over existing siding. Actually look nice as they are molded to accept boxes and screws. The ones that my guy used are different.



Plastic on face is 1/8 inch thick, so I assume it is meant to accept screws. Are there mounting brackets that are available to screw on this flat surface? What kind of screws would be best? I am thinking fine thread to bite to the 1/8th surface?

Ken