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 Post subject: Vinyl Replacement Questions
PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 4:04 pm 

Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2015 4:00 pm
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I looking at a project to replace my current single hung vinyl windows with new replacement windows. I would like to leave my current interior trim intact. I have had two different window installers and of course two different courses of action. One would be to remove the window and exterior trim and install a new construction window. How can they shim the window properly without removing trim?
Second would be to cut existing window out and install a replacement window.
Someone has replaced 3 of the windows and it looks like they took out the old window and extended the jam from the interior to the exterior and then placed the replacement inside the opening, I would be replacing these as well to match.

Any suggestions? I have done new constructions, but have not tried the installation of replacements. I've been told it was easier, but I am scratching my head on the different methods.


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 Post subject: Re: Vinyl Replacement Questions
PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:32 pm
Posts: 851
Location: Delaware, New Jersey, Philadephia Area
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I really don't like the express (second method) and prefer replacing a flanged vinyl window with a higher grade flanged vinyl window. Stone, brick, and stucco exteriors require different techniques. With vinyl or aluminum we address the exterior and cut back the sheetrock or wood jamb extensions in place and modify the stool. One can pan flash the rough sill and wet-bed the new frame without sashes after a dry fit of the new frame.

No need to use wood shims to a tightly measured window as proper placement of the nails through the flange plus checking the sash reveals to the head, meeting rail, and sill, along with the level will allow a precision fit. Foam will set and act as shims. I like an outside guy being instructed by the inside senior mechanic as to where to place the nails. Inside guy can pull jambs slightly in to give proper sash to jamb weatherstripping contact and let the outside guy know how and where to nail.

When working alone I will install with the factory screws angles slightly inward to get reveals correct along with my level. After 4-6 stainless screws are installed I can move to the outside to nail the flange.


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 Post subject: Re: Vinyl Replacement Questions
PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 12:08 pm 

Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2015 4:00 pm
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How do cut back wood jamb in place and then apply foam using a new construction window?


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 Post subject: Re: Vinyl Replacement Questions
PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 11:21 pm
Posts: 4350
Location: DC Metropolitan Area-Maryland/Virginia/DC
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Fein multimaster and a homemade fence of sorts.


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 Post subject: Re: Vinyl Replacement Questions
PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:32 pm
Posts: 851
Location: Delaware, New Jersey, Philadephia Area
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The typical new construction set up with builder's grade single hung vinyl in my parts is a basic 2" x 4" wall with 1/2" OSB and sheetrock with either a sheetrock return to the jambs and head plus a stool and apron. Optional wood jamb extensions and colonial casings we see once in a while too. We basically have to cut back the sheetrock to the jambs and head about 3/8" to 1/2".

Sheetrock is scored off after layout of a straight line. We do it freehand with a utility knife and have the shop vac near by. We punch the brads or finish nails through the stool with a pin punch and score off the caulk seals. Just lift out to be ripped in a table saw or circular saw after the new window is set. Personally speaking, I like the DuPont flashing system that consists of their Flex Sill Wrap and Straight flash. We adhere very strictly to their directions.

If the opening has wood jamb extensions jumped atop the stool and casings we perform layout of the straight line. I like to utilize a combination square for my initial reference marks. I will run a circular saw carefully to cover most of the cut and finish things off with our Fein or Milwaukee multimaster type tools. I dry fit the frame and then wet-bed it into the spray foam. We do this a lot and it's not very hard. It's a slow and tedious process. Since I wear contacts I'm not too fond of the sawdust that gets everywhere, although if my brain was fully functional I could put on my googles like a good little boy.

I'm going to get one of those "GoPro" helmet camera things? for Christmas and attempt to shoot some videos of this and perhaps set them up on YouTube one day. It's basically new construction with the stupid finish work in the way, oh and siding too.


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