Install methods.

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Windows on Washington
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Re: Install methods.

#16 Post by Windows on Washington » Thu Nov 08, 2018 5:19 am

1/8 is fine with the fibrous sidings. Its more for the siding than it is the for the window.

randy
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Re: Install methods.

#17 Post by randy » Thu Nov 08, 2018 8:18 pm

I agree with WoW, and wouldn’t sweat it.

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Re: Install methods.

#18 Post by LoneStarGuy » Thu Nov 08, 2018 8:41 pm

Thanks Randy and WoW. I spoke with the installer for the local manufacturer, they said with Hardie it is not an issue. The siding installer said if anything the Hardie is more prone to shrinkage than swelling. It looks great - so paint goes on tomorrow weather permitting. The siding installer (who also does windows) was happy with my install and did a good job integrating the Tyvek and adding more ProtectoWrap to the tape I had used. Before the siders came I removed the temporary trim to add an extra bead of Quad around the edges of the nailing fins. This was a step in the AAMA guide I got but not in the instructions with the windows.

Only scary moment today was having my water sensor alarm go off in the laundry room. Turned out the power washing of the foundation/brick sent water shooting up the overflow drain.....

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Re: Install methods.

#19 Post by randy » Fri Nov 09, 2018 3:36 pm

Glad to hear that your projects have gone well!

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Re: Install methods.

#20 Post by LoneStarGuy » Wed Jan 30, 2019 11:03 pm

About time to order more windows. I need to replace 6 single hungs, 3 upstairs and 3 down. I was thinking of using casements for the upstairs for better egress, and single-hung on the lower as their is porch bench in front of two of them. How much harder are casements to install? They are going into brick in my Texas home.

Also, another update. Per our smart thermostat, we went from 56 hours of heating to 34, and from one hour of cooling to zero. This is with 10 out of 17 windows replaced.

DECEMBER 2018
Avg Hi: 61° Avg Lo: 43°

HEATING
34 hours
COOLING
0 hours
OFF
710 hours
Avg Away
65°/--°
Avg Home
66°/--°

DECEMBER 2017
Avg Hi: 62° Avg Lo: 43°

HEATING
56 hours
COOLING
1 hours
OFF
687 hours
Avg Away
63°/77°
Avg Home
66°/76°

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Windows on Washington
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Re: Install methods.

#21 Post by Windows on Washington » Thu Jan 31, 2019 7:39 am

That's awesome data.

Kind of blows a hole in the argument that windows don't have a tangible impact on the heating and cooling of the home. That Low-e is going to probably work even better, in your climate, in the summer too!

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Re: Install methods.

#22 Post by LoneStarGuy » Sat Feb 02, 2019 10:46 pm

December was the only month so far with similar weather as the prior year so it made for a good comparison.

Not only did our gas usage go down but it is also more comfortable in the rooms with the new windows. However, with the siding job we noticed a humming noise (like traffic in the distance) after the windows quieted a lot of noise.

Today, I went up into attic to put away the xmas stuff and discovered the siders pushed away insulation from the exterior walls and left no insulation in spots along the ceiling next to the exterior wall over the master. Plus, the insulation over most of the master is only about 3-4 inches. I rearranged what we had to cover the bare spots and it seems quieter. I was worried the Hardie siding let more sound in than the old masonite, but it looks like an install issue that I can fix by blowing more insulation in.

That said, we need to do the next round of windows and were wondering if anyone had any thoughts on if casement windows are much harder to install than single-hung of the same size?

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Delaware Mike
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Re: Install methods.

#23 Post by Delaware Mike » Sun Feb 03, 2019 7:33 am

Operable casements in my opinion do take more time and skill to install as they are like entry doors when it comes to checking and achieving 100% plumb regarding the in-and-out vertical strike of the operable sash or slab. Installing only square and level won't due and walls are almost never 100% plumb, thus one can just run a replacement casement window or flanged new construction unit hard against stops or sheathing. One has to check with levels and strike reveal and then make the appropriate corner "kick" tweaks. Not that hard, but more time consuming and more experience required.

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Re: Install methods.

#24 Post by Windows on Washington » Sun Feb 03, 2019 8:06 am

LoneStarGuy,

Fantastic feedback and detailed at that. We sincerely appreciate your detailed and thoughtful feedback on this project and how much you are saving.

This is great 1st person feedback that will really help future consumers if facing a similar question as to what impact windows might have on their home's performance and comfort.

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Re: Install methods.

#25 Post by LoneStarGuy » Wed Mar 20, 2019 10:52 pm

So it is time to order more windows. I pretty much had narrowed things down to Milgard, Ringer (a local manufacturer) or maybe NT.

The Milgard Trinsic has a profile of is just under 2 5/8 inches, but that bulkier than those I have already installed from Ringer at 2 1/4 inches. With the same glass LoE 366 Ringer delivers a slightly higher VT (.52) versus .51. A downside, the Milgard doesn't appear to be have reinforcements and costs more when spec'd to the double strength glass, LoE-366 and Argon which are standard with Ringer. I do like the look of the Milgard auto-locks. I like they would meet egress in my sizes in single-hungs, but they are a pocket sill and have a narrow 2 7/8 depth frame versus the 3 1/4 depth Ringer uses. Plus, I had a horrible experience with Milgard getting them to send me a window or screen that was not damaged or lost - took over three months. I had to go with Milgard for one window as they could make a 12 inches wide SH for the laundry room.

In contrast, Ringer fixed a minor issue I had with a sash in less than two days (it had nicks on it from the extrusion process). Their windows operate well and look great. Plus they offered the LoE-340 I wanted for my office - Milgard didn't offer it. I like Ringer's fit/finish of their welds and the overall build. The main issue is meeting egress in single-hungs in the size I need in an upstairs bedroom, but I could go with their casement that would easily meet egress for $20 more than the Milgard single-hungs. The casement would give me better u-factor .26/SHGC .19 than the Milgard single-hungs. Neither manufacturer publishes air leakage for my choices but based on my experience with Ringer's awning window their casement should be very tight and quiet.

I was also considering adding NT back and as I found a builders supply house willing to sell them, but only their casement (their single hung has the same easement issues). I plan to get that quote tomorrow.

Lastly, I called one of the pros on here about 170 miles away to see if I could get the premium brands DIY, but understandably he only does installs for those brands to ensure quality. I get that but it was worth a shot. :-)

So question remain, should I go with a single-hung that gives me egress, but otherwise had drawbacks in support and function (pocket sills), or should I attempt a casement install with a brand I trust knowing the install will be harder but have better numbers? Or fudge egress and install something that doesn't meet egress in brick - my town doesn't seem to care about it anyway? Any thoughts on NT's casements?

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