Replacing New Construction Windows

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bw1021
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Replacing New Construction Windows

#1 Post by bw1021 »

Our home was built in 2007 with cheap MI flanged windows. Many of them have lost their seal and we have decided to replace them. We are going with a replacement window instead of a flanged window.

I have spoken with the contractor about how he intends to keep a waterproof seal with the new replacement windows. He indicated that he would be cutting the flanges of the existing window so that he could remove the existing frame and window. My understanding is that the existing flanges would stay installed as is. Then he would provide some foam, flashing and J-channel for the new replacement windows.

Is this a correct installation that will ensure a weathertight seal? Thank you for any guidance provided.

bw1021
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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#2 Post by bw1021 »

I forgot to add that we have vinyl siding on all sides of the house.

TheWindowNerd
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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#3 Post by TheWindowNerd »

That method done with great care and closed cell polyurethane foam will do well.
Each opening needs to be evaluated for the need of a drip cap.

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Windows on Washington
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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#4 Post by Windows on Washington »

It is done hundreds of times a day, and watertight.

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HomeSealed
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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#5 Post by HomeSealed »

+1, very common... also very commonly done poorly. The details that you've provided sound promising, Window Nerd is spot on with the drip cap reference in that the job should be evaluated for the need to add or replace it. What you want to avoid if at all possible is caulk being the only thing keeping water from infiltrating the top of the window opening as it will fail and require maintenance.

bw1021
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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#6 Post by bw1021 »

Thanks everyone for the info. The current windows that are installed have the nailing fins with what I believe is an integral J-channel since there is no j-channel installed around them. I would assume cutting the flanges and leaving them installed would constitute the need for a drip cap over each new window. Thanks again for the input.

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HomeSealed
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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#7 Post by HomeSealed »

I'd be looking to add one in that application, yes.

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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#8 Post by TheWindowNerd »

Most of the time we are able to leave the drip cap in place.
Most often we cut only the bottom and then the two vertical legs, we then pry down the top ripping the fin out of the head. If the drip comes out or is damaged we retro fit a new one.

bw1021
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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#9 Post by bw1021 »

@thewindownerd attached is a photo of one of the windows. It doesn't look like there is an existing drip cap. I do understand your method below but not sure if it would apply in this case because I believe the whole frame is being removed.
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Window.jpg
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Delaware Mike
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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#10 Post by Delaware Mike »

If the existing windows like yours have the factory built-in j-receiver into the frame of the vinyl window, you wouldn't find a drip cap as there would be no way for the top siding panel to be coped out and tuck into the j-receiver. The drip cap would prevent that in that application.

I'd approach the method of window replacement depending upon the existing WRB (housewrap/Tyvek building paper) and wallboard sheathing. If you have horrible 15lb. black building paper not lapped and applied correctly, or the stupid foil paper that is typically falling apart everywhere, I'd lean towards a flanged new construction siding drop with going back in with the same sized window. If you have pre-fab walls with foil faced paperboard sheathing, many times not disturbing the siding is a good idea and performing the more common hybrid cut flange and leave flange in place with an insert is ideal.

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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#11 Post by TheWindowNerd »

Your existing units do not have a drip cap nor J channel.
If we were doing your project we would cut out as I described previously, add a drip cap and J channel.
The J channel is typically site bent 3/8" hem, 1 to 1 1/2 face, 7/8 throat, 1 1/4 to 1 5/8 back leg. All corners are tabbed and bent to lock.

bw1021
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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#12 Post by bw1021 »

Thanks for all the feedback. The installation ended up a bit different then what was previously described. The old window fins weren’t left in place so the whole frame was ripped out. Foam was used and new j-channel was installed so that the siding could terminate to the J. Then exterior capping was installed over the new J on all 4 sides with caulking being applied to the capping on just the top leaving the sides and bottom uncaulked (my guess to allow any water to drain). Is this an acceptable installation?

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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#13 Post by HomeSealed »

bw1021 wrote: Thu Sep 01, 2022 11:04 am Thanks for all the feedback. The installation ended up a bit different then what was previously described. The old window fins weren’t left in place so the whole frame was ripped out. Foam was used and new j-channel was installed so that the siding could terminate to the J. Then exterior capping was installed over the new J on all 4 sides with caulking being applied to the capping on just the top leaving the sides and bottom uncaulked (my guess to allow any water to drain). Is this an acceptable installation?
Sounds off, but I'm not sure if what they did is out of the ordinary or just something lost in translation.
Any pics?

bw1021
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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#14 Post by bw1021 »

This is one I had on my phone, I can take another one closer up when I get home later. Ignore the yellow circle please.
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bw1021
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Re: Replacing New Construction Windows

#15 Post by bw1021 »

Attached are photos closer up.
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