Installing Okna 500 window questions

For those self-installers
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eddieE
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2016 2:58 pm

Installing Okna 500 window questions

#1 Post by eddieE »

Folks,

After doing lots of research I decided on the Okna 500. I ordered one window, will install myself, see how that goes, then order 10 more.

Does anyone have a detailed video on installing a window (preferably Okna) start to finish?

I need clarification on how to cut the sill adapter (put window in, measure height of gap, then cut on appropriate line) , attach the head expander (some instructions I found say to screw it into the window?? step 8 http://www.venturewindow.com/commercial/how-to-install-a-window) not sure what I need to do with it, do I use adhesive flashing on the window frame or just caulk, do I put caulking on the top flat surface of the head expander before sliding the window in or not?

I know this isn't that complicated, but I feel like I need to know all this before I end up with a huge hole in my house and get stuck not knowing what to do.

Thanks!

masterext
Posts: 826
Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:14 pm
Location: Window Pro-Serves All of Northern New Jersey. Bergen, Morris, Union, Essex, Passaic, Sussex Counties

Re: Installing Okna 500 window questions

#2 Post by masterext »

Eddie, the fact that you need instructional video's is reson enough to have a true pro perform the installation. Installing a window is far too complicated for a " do it yourselfer" to just do on his own unless you have worked with windows in the past.
I just dont see anything good happening if you try and do the installation.
Find a pro, you will save yourself a lot of time, money, and aggrevation.

eddieE
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2016 2:58 pm

Re: Installing Okna 500 window questions

#3 Post by eddieE »

masterext wrote:Eddie, the fact that you need instructional video's is reson enough to have a true pro perform the installation. Installing a window is far too complicated for a " do it yourselfer" to just do on his own unless you have worked with windows in the past.
I just dont see anything good happening if you try and do the installation.
Find a pro, you will save yourself a lot of time, money, and aggrevation.
Thanks. I should have said I have helped put in 10 windows at my house, a friend helped me do it. But that was 10 years ago and frankly I can't remember stuff from 2 weeks ago, let alone details from 10 years. He is not available to get me started on this project. I remember it was not that hard, we did 10 windows in 2 days taking our time and haven't had any issue. I looked on several sites and it seems like replacement windows are what would be considered diy friendly. If I went to a pro every I needed something done, breaks on the car, replace electrical switch, simple plumbing, like most people I would be broke. I like to learn and be self sufficient. Btw, a well done video of pretty much anything can certainly help you get things done. I have used youtube countless times. I have replaced car window motors, wheel hubs, fixed my washing machine and several other projects that would have cost hundreds if not thousands if I didn't do it myself. I just can't seem to find a video that is detailed enough for this though.

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Delaware Mike
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Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:32 pm
Location: Delaware, New Jersey, Philadephia Area

Re: Installing Okna 500 window questions

#4 Post by Delaware Mike »

Eddie,

If you're retrofitting a wood pocket and have sized the unit correctly, the head expander should hold tension to the top of the wood head pocket with just the "dx" package exterior foam wrap. I don't really do many 500 jobs as I pretty much stick with the 800dx. If there isn't two strips of ether foam wrapping tape you will want to fill the inside of the head expander with fiberglass insulation or your can even use some extra AC window unit type stuff. It won't do a ton for actual insulation R-V, but at least it's not a hollow void and the insulation will pack up the head to a uniform fit. After dry fitting you can put some silicone or exterior sealant to also help hold. I don't like screwing the head expanders as it looks bad in my opinion. We hardly every use them in the first place.

If it is a wood tear out, the bottom sill angle should be wider than the distance it needs to cover as the vinyl window face will be butted behind possibly wood stops. This would require you to snip it to length first. Save the little snipped piece and use it as a height reference piece. What I do is to find how out of level the wood still might be and snip this little snipped piece to sort of dry fit as a template. Once I've performed a cut or two to find the right cut height I will transfer it over to the opposing side and see if when I cut the finish sill adaptor/angle if it will need more or less material cut off. Make two reference marks and straight edge them with pencil, and then cut a away. Holding screen up and you should be able to push it in with your thumbs if you press hard enough.

We inject low expansion spray foam to that gap by the way. Be careful not to add too much as you don't want it to expand past the face of the bottom of the frame once it sets up.

Good luck.

eddieE
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2016 2:58 pm

Re: Installing Okna 500 window questions

#5 Post by eddieE »

Delaware Mike wrote:Eddie,

If you're retrofitting a wood pocket and have sized the unit correctly, the head expander should hold tension to the top of the wood head pocket with just the "dx" package exterior foam wrap. I don't really do many 500 jobs as I pretty much stick with the 800dx. If there isn't two strips of ether foam wrapping tape you will want to fill the inside of the head expander with fiberglass insulation or your can even use some extra AC window unit type stuff. It won't do a ton for actual insulation R-V, but at least it's not a hollow void and the insulation will pack up the head to a uniform fit. After dry fitting you can put some silicone or exterior sealant to also help hold. I don't like screwing the head expanders as it looks bad in my opinion. We hardly every use them in the first place.

If it is a wood tear out, the bottom sill angle should be wider than the distance it needs to cover as the vinyl window face will be butted behind possibly wood stops. This would require you to snip it to length first. Save the little snipped piece and use it as a height reference piece. What I do is to find how out of level the wood still might be and snip this little snipped piece to sort of dry fit as a template. Once I've performed a cut or two to find the right cut height I will transfer it over to the opposing side and see if when I cut the finish sill adaptor/angle if it will need more or less material cut off. Make two reference marks and straight edge them with pencil, and then cut a away. Holding screen up and you should be able to push it in with your thumbs if you press hard enough.

We inject low expansion spray foam to that gap by the way. Be careful not to add too much as you don't want it to expand past the face of the bottom of the frame once it sets up.

Good luck.
Mike, thanks for the advice. Looking forward to tackling this project.

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