framing out replacement windows

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KHeinz
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 3:06 pm

framing out replacement windows

#1 Post by KHeinz »

My husband and I just bought a 100 yr old house and are doing a ton of work ourselves. Most of the windows are being replaced by professionals, but there were two windows in the back addition we wanted to save money on, b/c we didn't need to save the original trim, didn't need to keep original dimensions, etc. We got some salvaged replacement windows, took out the original frames/windows (they were rotten), and my husband framed out new openings for the salvaged windows. I've read that the only real difference b/n replacement windows and new construction windows is the nailing fin. Is this true? We want to make sure that we do the flashing correctly, and are also perplexed if a windowsill is needed for any reason if we use flashing and caulk, etc. The vinyl siding is off, and we will re-side, so working around existing siding isn't an issue (though trimming the window properly once we start siding is). Also...if it helps to know this, there will be 2.5-3 inches of "stuff" (the old wood siding and furrowing strips) beyond the wall frame. He's afraid that if we install the window so that it is nearly flush with the siding, it will not have any structural support holding it in the wall. We're low on money and high on stress at the moment.

My questions are:
1. Are we crazy for framing out a space for a replacement window? Is a new construction window our only option? I'm just not seeing any info online about this. My husband is handy at problem solving, framing out new walls, and other basic carpentry things. This is just a new area of challenge for us. The new windows are in - at least temporarily, and they didn't leak when it rained.

2. How should we install flashing properly? Is there a site you can point us to? I've found it for new construction windows, but didn't know if we should do something different in our situation.

3. Do we need a window sill or can the window be flush to the outside, as long as flashing is directing the water away from the wood - ie maybe over the house wrap?

Thanks for any input you can give!

JScott
Posts: 323
Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2005 8:48 pm

#2 Post by JScott »

Tyvek has a good website to illistrate flashing and Marvin may still have a movie on the application of flashing. We use protect-o-wrap as it is not a name brand but is a good material. I recommend a 9" flashing for vinyl siding which has to be special ordered in my region as the builders usually use 4". A sill is probably not needed. If you have new construction in the area sneak over and see what they are doing but refer to the actual instructions on the web pages above. When using a new construction window with an integral nail flange you will not need to use a sill pan. Good luck. Hope this helps.

KHeinz
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 3:06 pm

#3 Post by KHeinz »

Thanks for the site suggestions.

I think we came up with a good solution, which reframed the area with 2X6s within the 2X4 frame he had created (and then expanded in order to accomodate the 2X6s), that set the window out a bit farther (which the nailing flange would have done if it had one - being a replacement window, it does not). My husband made a fantastic sill area inside that will be great for plants, so the extra space the 2X6s made will actually be a plus. Wish we had known about the 9" flashing. We used 4", because that's what the store had. But, he used a bunch of it, so I think it's pretty tight.

I appreciate your comments. Thanks!

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