Fixing lock in Sunrise Patio Door

[ssg]

I recently had an installation of Sunrise Restoration windows and a patio door. The windows are great, but have been having persistent problems with the lock. The middle of the door bulges a bit, so the top and bottom locks are not catching in the hooks properly. I have already called out the installer twice because the lock failed, and they have come and cranked something in the bottom of the door a bit, but have not fixed what I believe is the underlying issue. The middle lock is still the only one that locks.

I believe I can fix this myself. There appears to be a black plastic piece behind the middle lock that is pushing the middle hook out more than it should. This is couple with the fact that they used a round head screw for some reason. Reading the manual, this seems like it is the factory installed shim that they decided not to remove.

My questions are 1) am I correct in that I can simply try to remove this piece? Will this cause any potential issues with the door operation? 2) The bottom lock mechanism in the door looks like it raises slightly higher than other two. Will this cause any issues and can it be adjusted? I'm not able to find any technical instructions to adjust it.

[Windows on Washington]

Let's see what you are seeing and check the panel reveal with the fixed door. How about some pictures.

[ssg]

Here are some pictures. In the first, you can see the hook attached to the wall extends out past the edges of the doorframe. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Fy6Cm ... p=drivesdk. The top and bottom hooks do not.

In the second, you can see a black plastic shim with is partially responsible for this. There is a shim behind the other two hooks, but since the frame bows a bit the middle one is the only one extending past the rest https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Cxx6I ... p=drivesdk

In the final image you can see the result. Here the door was locked and then pulled. A gap is created in the bottom of the door, and cannot be pushed back in. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QA_lI ... p=drivesdk

[Windows on Washington]

Last picture, while not great, does indicated that the panel gapping it off a bit. Not sure if that is the sill being out of level or the manner in which the frame is attached to the wall, but this should be an installer correction.

[Delaware Mike]

Sunrise/MI attaches the multipoint strike hook metal piece with short phillips #2 bugle heads to the strike leg extrusion from the factory and expects their certified installers to replace a few of them with longer 3" like screws after the strike reveal margins are correct. Your margins don't appear to be correct from the one picture and it looks as if the installers over shimmed the center are which is why the sightline reveal closes up towards the handleset. You can loosen most of the screws and completely take out the two around the middle strike hook and take out that black plastic horseshoe shim completely and see how it works.

I know that panhead screw doesn't match, but that shouldn't matter for operation. That would bother me too. The strike plate thing will move up and down a tad. It's important to get it aligned with the active panel plates that engage to the hooks. Those are fussy doors and not for amature installers. You have to get trained correctly by a seasoned pro or be a good learner with a mechanical aptitude.

You can also open that active panel at least a foot and stick anything like a small straight screwdriver against main lockset depression thing? That will allow one to turn the interior deadbolt thumbturn without being closed into the strikes so that you get the feeling of how the handleset is supposed to lock tension wise. These were my "go to" sliders for a decade before I brought on the OKNA slider with is much easier to install. I still do a handful of Sunrise doors a year as they have so many unique options regarding colors, laminate interiors, and blinds.