Need help - questioning an installation of Okna 800 windows

[Zev]

Hello all,
Not sure where to turn, hoping you can help. I recently purchased over a dozen Okna 800 triple pane replacement style windows (no flange) from a local dealer / installer with good online reviews and who I used for a much smaller project years ago. They replaced the original builder's windows in my home, which were vinyl certainteed windows. Home was built in 1996. Vinyl siding, with weep holes if that matters. After they finished, I noticed that some of the capping was retaining water (toward the window rather than away) and that caulk was poorly applied and missing (including where there was water), some of the capping wasn't very pleasing to the eye (not well done in some places), among other things. I watched them install the windows but don't know much of anything about window installation. After they finished, I looked up install methods and noticed that they did no "flashing" to the rough opening. After questioning this with the installer, he said that this window has an "auxiliary track" and that with the J channel they don't need to do any flashing of the rough opening. I'm seeing very little support for this online.

Is what the installer saying true or do I need to take action? Is there any case with such a scenario where the flashing of the rough opening is completely unnecessary?

[Windows on Washington]

Can you post up a picture?

The reality is that short of removing the vinyl siding, certainly an option but not one that most homeowners will want to incur, there isn't any applicable "flashing" that will go from the new window and tie into the drainage plane of the home.

As far as the water and capping, kind of need to see what you see to weigh in on that.

[Zev]

Hi, Windows on Washington,

Thank you very much for your reply.

The reality is that short of removing the vinyl siding, certainly an option but not one that most homeowners will want to incur, there isn't any applicable "flashing" that will go from the new window and tie into the drainage plane of the home.

Ok, so not even a taped "membrane" or aluminum "sill" or anything like that? Just windows right into the rough opening? Is this definitely going to be a problem or am I just worrying for no reason and this is completely normal?

Below is a video of the capping retaining water. This is probably about an hour or so after it had stopped raining. The water sits in the capping and pools toward the back, on the caulking / toward the window. I told the installer, who is coming back to rectify any issues. I will post more pictures of the windows once I can take some in the daylight.

https://youtube.com/shorts/c4r2UfE-3d0?feature=share

[Ricknez]

Flashing the rough opening would not be included in a replacement window install, only a full tear out which includes removing all of the interior and exterior trim down to the studs ( rough opening ). The installer is correct. The seams in the aluminum capping do not get caulked.

[Windows on Washington]

Probable could have bent a bit of positive slope into that sill cap, but that is going over the J-channel in this case.

To you first question, that is correct. There is no way to really "flash" the windows here until you remove the siding or at least 4" of trim around the window opening.

[Delaware Mike]

They needed to put more of a sill pitch to that sill cap. I see way too many installers not pitching sill caps correctly. Even if no water can get in past the sealant bead that looks tucked into the face utility groove, their caulk bead will look terrible with water constantly laying on it until it dries out.

[HomeSealed]

@Zev, there is a "best practice" way of doing things, and then a "meets acceptable minimum standards" way of doing things-- along with everything in between. Keep in mind, the former will be much more $$$ than the latter.

Based on the description and video, it LOOKS to be above the minimum threshold, although as the others have said, some slope for drainage on that sill would be advisable.

[Zev]

Here are some additional images and videos:

Small window:
Exterior photos: https://imgur.com/a/nom1qT4
Exterior video: https://youtube.com/shorts/dBka87iVFTM?feature=share

Large window(s):
Exterior photos: https://imgur.com/a/bBFpnXr
Interior: https://youtube.com/shorts/QGL9eggpeFE?feature=share
- This is how all the windows in the house look. The old ones looked the same in terms of depth (no changes in that regard).

When installed this way, without the flange, without removing siding, and without flashing, what is a proper expectation in terms of potential for water damage over time?

Does the siding having weep holes mean there will be issues? I had someone that came over to my home mention this to me.

In some of the pictures, you can see where the siding is cut at the bottom, there is a gap. Is this an issue?

Thanks for all of your comments and feedback!

[Ricknez]

everything seems to be ok.

[HomeSealed]

-The siding weep hole "issue" is nonsense. yes vinyl siding is supposed to have weep holes.

- The siding cuts underneath look normal

- The overlap of the side trim over the sill where it doesn't fit tight is sloppy work. Aesthetic really, but sloppy.

- The concerning part here IMO is the head flashing/drip cap which is caulked to the vinyl siding. That MAY be "fake" if the original j channel and flashing are under that and therefore MAY not be an issue, but why do it if that is the case? ... This part is worth further attention IMO.